Time Patrol. Brazil. ’73-’75

I discovered Brazil in 1973. I was in College in France. Made new friends there who were French but raised in Brazil. Since I was brought up in Africa, connections were made. First trip to Brazil in 1973. Second in 1975. Overall I spent six months in Brazil. Picked up Portuguese “na rua” (on the street). My friends would often switch to Portuguese. I listened. Latin, Spanish and French helped. Over the years I worked with Brazil a lot. Travelled back often. A great country. Great people.

During those first two trips we covered a lot of Brazil, all the way to Belem on the Amazon in the North, down to Foz do Iguaçu in the south, São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, Minas Gerais, Brasilia, the – then- brand new capital of Brazil. And many other places.

The above photograph features the “Praça dos tres poderes” (Plaza of the three powers) in Brasilia. (All photos taken in ’73-’75. It’s been a while…)

Colonial church, Diamantina, Minas Gerais. Minas Gerais (which means ‘General mines’) is a state of the interior, rich in minerals, precious stones. We even visited a diamond mine. They’d transformed an old Mercedes Lorry engine as a pump to sort out the diamonds. Not enough money to buy diamonds though.

Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná, Brazil. One of the largest waterfalls in the world. On the Paraná river. Paraguay is on the other side of the falls. And Argentina, somewhere… Today I believe there is a long boardwalk across the river, just above the fall.

Iguaçu falls from the Brazilian side, as seen from below the cataract. Again, I think the viewpoint has been extended. Considerably. The word ‘Iguaçu” comes from the Tupi-Guarani word ‘i’ for water, and ‘uaçu’ which means big.

Sete quedas. Yours truly playing explorer in a long gone site close to Iguaçu called “Sete quedas”. (Seven Falls.) A series of 19 falls in seven groups, the volume of water was twice as big as Niagara Falls. Very isolated, one could go from one tiny island to the other on suspended bridges as this one. We were practically alone.

You can imagine the humidity; the noise of the falls was deafening.

Same fall, seen from the other side. Water everywhere. In 1982, the entire site disappeared in a fortnight, as Brazil inaugurated what was then the second largest dam in the world… A few fading photos are all that’s left of this wonderful place.

Rio de Janeiro. (River of January). Founded in 1565. Home of Samba, Macumba, and some of the best varieties of ‘batidas’, cocktails made with ‘cachaça’ a sugarcane alcohol. Many regions in Brazil produce cachaça. Some of you may have heard about ‘caipirinha’. After a couple you see the world with other eyes.

O Cristo do Corcovado. 1931. I’ve just read that it was “Art déco”… Okay. Today I imagine there must be a queue miles long to go up.

“The treasure of the Sierra Madre.” Humphrey Bogart’s “burros” (pronounced “burroughs), somewhere in Minas Gerais.

The cathedral of Brasilia. Designed, as the entire city, by Architect Oscar Niemeyer, it was only inaugurated in 1970, that is three years before we went… The entire new capital was impressive, but had an “unfinished” air, apart from the main administrative buildings. I remember we spent a couple of nights off the main avenues, in a “hotel” of wooden rooms, with planks over the mud and a few rats running between the rooms…

Interior of the cathedral. The angels were designed to give the sensation that they were flying.

Saint Francis church, Ouro Preto, Brazil. The name ‘Ouro preto’ means ‘Black gold’. The city was founded on a gold rush and mining in the 18th century… At one time Ouro Preto’s population was larger than New York… (According to “Kikipedia”.)

Congonhas do Campo. Minas Gerais. During the Gold rush, many flamboyant cities were built in the state. With Baroque churches such as this one. The sculptures around the church are the twelve prophets, (I’d been told the twelve Apostles) sculpted in soapstone by a man called Aleijadinho.

According to Google Lens (Merci Gilles), this would be the Prophet Daniel. Many many years later when I walked the Charles bridge in Prague, I felt I’d been transported back to Congonhas… Very strange how a similar – Baroque – style could be developed thousands of miles apart. The artist’s nickname, “Aleijadinho”, means “the little cripple”. An unknown illness slowly deformed his body and his hands. He lost most his fingers over the years, yet still continued to sculpt, having the chisels and hammers tied to his stumps…

O mensajeiro da fe. The messenger of Faith. We took this boat to sail from Fortaleza to São Luis. Rumour had it that the boat had belonged to Corto Maltese.

“365 igrejas a Bahia tem.” There are 365 churches in Salvador da Bahia, as the song goes. I tried to visit Golden lips, but she was away on a trip.

The Amazon? Close. This is the Pará river, off Belén do Pará, the gateway to the Amazon.

Muito obrigado pela companhia nessa viagem… Thank you for your company on this trip down Memory lane. Até logo. See you soon. (And an apology to my Brazilian and Portuguese friends about possible misspelling. I never learnt how to write Portuguese properly…) 🙏🏻

This is my last post of the season. Travelling next month. I know some of you keep posting on trips. My compliments. I can’t manage it. “Y’all” have a wonderful summer. We’ll keep in touch anyway… (The magic of phones)

And last but not least allow me to end this -too long a- post with a song by fabulous Brazilian artist Dorival Caymmi: “Eu fiz uma viagem”, I took a trip.

133 thoughts on “Time Patrol. Brazil. ’73-’75

  1. Je pense que le Paraguay est en effet de l’autre côté du Rio Parana mais que les chutes d’Iguazu sont sur la rivière Iguazu qui sépare le Brésil de l’Argentine.
    Merci pour le voyage brésilien et les couleurs d’un temps d’avant le numérique, Brieuc.

  2. Dag Brian. I like this post tremendously. I love picture of places just build or being build. Brasilia! Never been there, and if I would go visit it would not be the same as 50 years ago, probably worn out already, but in your images brand new and hoping for the best. Water falls not existing anymore. Lonely colonial churches at the top of some mine city. O dear! Would I have loved to be there then. You are a blesssed man to have seen that all. Have a good summer Brian. Travel well and be home safe. Tot later!

    • Dag Peter. I’ve noticed you like things built. Brasilia was… eerie. Main administrative buildings there, and nothing else. No accommodations for the people. The “hotel” we stayed at was barely above “slum” level…
      yep I was lucky.
      Tot plus tard.

  3. Brasil! Bom olhar meu país dos anos 73/75. E sentir uma saudade imensa de tantos lugares que hoje já não existem. Mais um pouco, poderias ter vindo ao meu Rio Grande do Sul e minha cidade, Porto Alegre. Muito obrigado por trazer o Brasil daqueles anos. E feliz viagem. Abraço, Brian.

    • Saudade não tem fim? 😉
      Sim. Agora pensei em Porto alegre, mais naquela viagem, a gente foi do São Paulo até Salvador, logo Minas, Brasilia, e logo até Iguaçu e Sete quedas. Jà a gente ‘tava con s… cheio de tantos kilometros. 😉
      Obrigado. Abraço grande de volta.

    • They have. Obvioulsy I’ve used a bit of Photoshop colour re-balance.
      And yes, the little cripple was a master artist. Going up the hill to that church there is a viacrucis with altars and other soapstone statues. Amazing.

      • They are here. We have had weather alerts up since yesterday morning. It looked foggy, but it was actually smoke. Telling people to stay inside if they have any problems breathing. Today is supposed to be worse than yesterday but it looks better. Doesn’t mean the count isn’t worse. I was out yesterday and my eyes were burning. Poor Canada and they think the fires will burn all summer.

      • Poor Canada indeed. Let’s hope it rains… Wasn’t there a Credence song along those lines? (Memory is playing tricks on me…) 🌧 ☔️

  4. Hi Brian, my sister, the one who worked at O&M, spent time in Brazil. The closest I’ve been to the Amazon is reading Journey to the River Sea by Eva Ibbotson. Your pictures and adventures are wonderful. I hope you have a lovely summer holiday and I look forward to more posts on your return.

    • Dankie Robbie.
      If your sister spent some time in Brazil, she might know some people I worked with, even if it was quite a while back. Douglas Patricio? Ronald Assumpção?
      The Amazon is both… enticing and disappointing… But I’m glad I went, from both ends…
      Haven’t read Eva Ibbotson. Will look her up.
      You’re in winter now, right? So the holidays are more in December?

  5. Great trip down a long gone past! A couple of the pictures I’ve seen before but it’s no problem.
    Have a safe trip yourself, enjoy it to the max! 🙂

      • Heh, you know me. The curious type with a weird memory. 🙂 I think it was the one with you on the bridge and the one with St. Francis. Not sure about others.

        My summer will be a lot of “fun” with the fleas, like every summer for the past… 3-4 years. What can a poor guy do. Survival. At most.
        Have a great summer! 🙂

      • I thought those two could be. (I shan’t look up in past posts…)
        Fleas? Of course. Summer? There must be some herbal anti flea thing…
        Now, survival? You have survived so far… 😉

      • No cure I could find so far for the fleas. And zero money buys zero things. Survival? Yeah, managed so far. Maybe it’s time to move forward to another dimension. At least I’d get rid of the fleas. 😆

  6. What wonderful memories you have to look back to … if you should – against expectations – get old one day … 😉
    I wish you and your family a great summer!
    (I love the travel song)

    • Ha! (I am already getting old. Cranks and crinks… But it’s all right…)
      Thank you for your wishes. You too enjoy the summer… Long rides in nature. Europe is so beautiful this time of year.
      (And the song… it always comes to my mind when I think of Brazil… Eu fiz uma viagem… Dorival Caymmi was a master…)
      TSchüß

  7. Wow, some great photos and memories from your past. Never got to Iguaçu but I hear that it’s extremely touristy there and this was back in 2011. You were lucky to see the falls in the ’70s as I’m sure it would have been more relaxed.

  8. These take me back – not as far back as they ‘take’ you, but to our visit in 2001. Iguaçu remains the most impressive waterfall system I have seen, even beating Victoria Falls. I’d love to go back and see some of the places we missed, including Brasilia. Safe travels and have a great summer!

    • It is quite beautiful. Haven’t seen Victoria falls. I did go to Murchison Falls in Uganda. Not that big, but wonderful. (Probably changed the name now… 😉)
      Thank you. You too Sarah. (Any plans?)

      • Lots of plans but all close to home until September – tickets for Wimbledon, short breaks in Hampshire and Newcastle/Yorkshire, the summer festivals at home in Ealing 🙂 Then Paris for a few days at the start of September and Chicago later that month (another Virtual Tourist gathering).

  9. What a lovely post, Brian! Honestly, other than Amazon and perhaps the statue of Christ the redeemer, nothing rang a bell and yet I could connect with your stories. I wonder whether the water fall is as magnificent as you remember, today? Anyway, best wishes for a relaxing holiday.

  10. There’s a lot more water in the falls than I recall when we were there, Brian. It must have been truly deafening. Great photos, always so few cars in old photos of city streets. Have never been to Brazil, something of an oversight, but your tales are inspiration.

  11. What a wonderful trip you brought us on! Love the images and the engaging commentary that accompany them.
    Just happen to have some cachaça at home… and limes, and sugar. I see a Caipirinha in my very near future.
    Bonne vacances mon ami!

    • I don’t know how it is now, probably a lot of crowds, though who knows. But it’s probably still worth the trip. If you do, make time to go to Itapoa. It’s a simple beach, but you have to look at it and listen to the song… (fala de amor Itapoa)

  12. Wonderful!
    Brian, you’ve collected many great images over the years.
    I think blogging…internet… has been perfect for you to share your collection.
    Funny, but that song sounded just like I thought it would.
    Enjoyable, thank you! xx

  13. What a blast from the past you have brought us to with this post, Brian. The old photos show so much history, along with your words and memories… similar feel to when one sits down, slips on a old vinyl album on the hi-fi and enjoys the sounds of yesterday. The Foz do Iguaçu, in Paraná are something else, what a flow of water ~ the sound and feel of the mist is something I imagine you’ll never forget. And yes, the photo of Prophet Daniel gives the feeling of those on the Charles bridge in Prague. Wishing you safe travels ~ and continued enjoyment of the summer!

  14. Hello Brian!
    Are you back from travels, yet?
    Anyway, I’ve been back and forth to my 2 blogs, Art Gowns & Glam. I’m possibly the worst blogger ever. I should have answered your question about my Jim Morrison drawing, while I was there, but….
    Anyway, Holly wrote a poem for it. https://houseofheartweb.wordpress.com/2023/07/06/morrison/
    Also, although not featured in the post, it does make an appearance in my latest post on Art Gowns. “Ashlie in Jade with Jimi & Jim”.

    I’m looking forward to seeing images from your sojourn in parts of the world.
    -Resa xx

  15. Thank you for sharing this. What wonderful photos. I am about to embark on a tour of South America and this helped me get excited.

      • I may have gotten carried away but we are going to take 3 months starting in Colombia, spend 2 weeks in Ecuador, a further two in Bolivia before crossing to Chile going down south to Patagonia and returning via Buenos Aires, Montevideo and Iguazu Falls before finishing in Rio. We are hoping we have enough stamina!

      • 3 months is good. Allows you to take things at a slower pace…
        Do you already have specific plans for Colombia? I know the country reasonably well, since my wife is Colombian. I might be able to give you a few tips… Chile, I only know santiago, Valparaiso, and Viña del mar. Brazil (and Iguaçu) I know reasonably well. Let me know.

      • It looks a bit whistlestop still, in Colombia we are going to Cartagena and Santa Marta (1 wk). Santiago, Valpo and Vina del Mar are also in the plan (Only 5 days for those)

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